Yunnan is a country within a country — 25 ethnic minorities, terrain that ranges from tropical rainforest to snow-capped peaks, and food that tastes nothing like what you've had at a Chinese restaurant abroad. The Golden Route (Kunming → Dali → Lijiang → Shangri-La) is the classic itinerary, but each stop earns its place. Dali's old town sits between Erhai Lake and the Cangshan range — rent a scooter and ride the lake circuit. Lijiang's cobblestone lanes are busier than they used to be, but turn left when everyone turns right and the Naxi tea houses are still there.